• The first parts of the process

I am working on two grosgrain wireframe headpieces. One is white undyed materials, and one will be dyed.  

I am making these pieces to explore the tradition of wireframe headpieces mid 20th century. The undyed one to explore the techniques, combination of materials and shape. I will then create the same piece with materials I will dye. 

The starting point and inspiration for this work is a head piece in the Hopkins collection. My main reference are the book:  

Headwear: Hats, Bonnets and Caps from the Hopkins Collection C.1700-1955 

By Vanessa Hopkins  

ISBN 0993174434, 9780993174438   

The visible part of the wireframe headpiece I am making consists of 5 ribbon works resembling a conch shell. One ribbon conch is made from one meter grosgrain that are 4 cm wide. Here are some pictures of the first steps in my process of making this piece.  

I am counting 10 scallops on the edge for each pleat.

Each pleat is stitched down on the opposite edge of the ribbon with a slight shift. This lifts the draping, makes for a more interesting edge and helps the shape when it is twisted for the conch look.

Reference book: Headwear: Hats, Bonnets and Caps from the Hopkins Collection C.1700-1955

Pinning and draping to find the desired shape of each ribbon ornament.

Thank you for reading. Please reach out or comment if you have any interesting information regarding this subject, or a tip on articles or literature that may inform my work going forward.